Fell In To A Burning Ring Of Fire

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With spring in full swing here, the scorpions are starting to find their way into people's homes  and basements.  Friends tell us that during the summer they are plentiful in basements and mud houses, which makes us thankful that we live on the third floor of a concrete building.  And that there is a mullah located just down the road from us who specializes in potions for scorpion stings and snake bites.  Seriously...there's even a sign on the main road to direct you to his house.

One of our friends told us that if you catch a scorpion and surround it with fire, it will sting itself to death.  We scoffed a bit, thinking this was more local lore of the drink hot black tea during the winter because it's warmer than hot green tea variety.  But just in case we decided to try it.

We found our first scorpion of the season in the basement a couple days ago, and managed to capture it in a plastic cup.  We took it outside to the driveway where we prepared a ring of fire out of some gooey fire starter we had left over from the winter, and placed the it in the center.  The scorpion ran at the fire in 3 directions before realizing he was trapped and immediately started to sting himself to death.  Actually it was a little disappointing how quickly he gave up - he didn't even exhaust all his options!  Still, it was entertaining, and we left the ring of fire there for a couple days as a warning to all the other scorpions who might consider entering our house.

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Thankful for the IRS?

Since our US readers just finished filing tax returns, we thought you would appreciate this story of myself (Matin) and *Ibrahim (a co-worker) trying to pay taxes in our country. Hopefully no matter how bad your tax season was, you can read this story and say, "at least it's not that bad."

The saga actually started almost 3 weeks ago, when two teammates signed rental contracts on two new houses.  Rental contracts usually involve a pre-payment of about a year's worth of rent, and the government charges a 20% tax on the rent that is pre-paid.  Although the owner of the house technically owes the tax, it is the responsibility of the renter to withhold the 20% from the rent paid and take it to the Ministry of Finance (the Mustofiat) to pay on the owner's behalf.  Makes sense right? No.  Absolutely not.

Day 1

Ibrahim & I went to the Mustofiat with money and contract in hand.  Entering the main door, we deciphered the word "tax" in Persian on the sign of one office, so we headed that way.  After a short conversation with the men in the office, we figured out they were telling us that this was the place to pay corporate taxes, but not residential taxes.  So we walked upstairs to the office they directed us to, only to be told that wasn't the right place either.  You have to go to the small annex building around the back, they said.  So we went.  In this office sat four men who appeared to be doing absolutely nothing - not a single paper on any of their desks.  After 30 minutes of explaining what we wanted, they told us that we were in the right place, but they did not have our tax ID number:  we would have to go back to the first office to get the tax ID number. 

After obtaining the ID number, we returned to the annex office to pay.  Oh wait, they told us, these contracts don't begin until after the new year.  You'll have to come back after the new year to pay.  But since it was so close to lunchtime, they invited us to eat lunch with them.  Since we had already been there for more than 2 hours, we stayed to eat pilau with them.

Day 2 (a week and a half later)

We returned to the Mustofiat three days after Naw Roz, only to be told by the doorman that today was a holiday and nobody was working.  Why?, we asked, everybody else is back at work.  It turned out that he didn't actually know why no one there was working, but since there were no cars in the parking lot and he wouldn't let us in, we left.

Day 3 (the next day)

After language class we ate lunch and then went back to the Mustofiat....again.  We headed directly to the annex office, where we were greeted warmly and told that, in fact, the previous day had not been a holiday.  They were all at work and had no idea why the doorman told us the place was closed.

Following a short conversation during which they re-checked our tax ID number, they they informed us that their office can only sign for one of the the new houses - the other house had to be signed for by the office next door because it was in a different area of the city.  Of course, all of the people in that office had gone home for the day.  However, one of the guys offered to take us over to the main building where we could get the other signatures we needed, and then we could simply come back the next day for the final signature.  He led us through a series of five different offices, stopping in each one to obtain a signature from an individual who had absolutely nothing on his desk and did not read the paperwork.  Afterwards he told us that we were now able to go pay the tax for one house at a certain bank, but we would have to do it in the morning because they only accept taxes before lunch.

Day 4 (the next next day)

Growing frustrated with the amount of time this was taking, we decided to go straight back to the Mustofiat and get the remaining signatures so that we could take paperwork for both houses to the bank at the same time.  Soon after arriving at the second office, it became evident that no one from the first office had spoken with them, and we had to explain the entire situation over again.  After going through all five offices for signatures on the second set of paperwork, they told us that since the rent on the house was paid in US dollars but the tax had to be payed in local currency, we would need documentation of the exchange rate from the bank.  Off to the bank we went to obtain a signed slip of paper specifying the current exchange rate.

After returning with the paper, the office finally signed the papers and specified that we must pay the tax on this house at a certain bank as well - only it was a different bank than the one we had to pay the taxes on the first house at.  Still determined, we set off for this bank to pay the tax, which we were able to do after speaking with the manager and waiting in line...3 times.   We then set off to pay taxes on the first house at the first bank, but when we arrived we were told they did not accept taxes - only the second bank (the national bank) can take tax money.  Are you sure?  we asked, The Mustofiat specifically told us to come here.   It turned out they were sure - the instructions were printed on the papers we were carrying with us, only we couldn't read the Persian script!  So we left the first bank and retuned to the one where we had just paid taxes on one house, and stood in the same lines all over again.  Finally we obtained receipt of payment for both taxes, and we brought those back to the Mustofiat to place in our file.

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6 Months!

Recently we were talking about what our next blog post should be, and we were both experiencing major writers block.  We couldn't think of a single thing that had happened to us or that we had seen since the previous post that would warrant a post.  Nothing seemed particularly interesting or unique - something someone would want to read about.  We had spent our days going to language school, working, hanging out with friends, running errands, and carving our precious relaxation time on the weekends.....a very normal life.  And as soon as we said the word "normal", it hit us:

We've been here six months.  

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Happy New Year!

This past Saturday the entire Muslim world celebrated the new year:  according to the local calendar, it is now officially the year 1388!  We found that our city is the annual epicenter for the new year celebrations for both the entire nation and several of the neighboring ones, much the same way that Times Square is the epicenter for American celebration.  In the week leading up to Nao Roz  (what they call New Years Day...literally "new day") people descended on the city in droves, increasing the population from the average 400,000 to over 1 million people.  There was literally no room in any of the hotels, and some of our friends told us they had over 40 relatives & friends sleeping on their floors and in their hallways.  We ourselves had friends from our old city visiting, so we reached 11 adults and 4 kids at our house - our attempt at "being cultural."

The actual day of Nao Roz turned out to be very similar to New Year's Day in NYC.  Everyone flocks to the shrine in the middle of the city to watch a giant flag raised, only here they do it at 10am instead of midnight.  The crowds are so thick you can barely move and people climb into the trees and balconies of adjacent buildings to get a good look.  The police actually close off all roads in a 2 km radius to cars - only taxis with special permits (and really important people, like presidents & governors) can drive anywhere near the shrine.  The celebration is mostly a day-long street party culminating in a fireworks display around 11pm that night.  We were fortunate that our house is taller than our neighbors, so we had a great view of the fireworks from the room of our house.

Technically people say that the actual day of Nao Roz is only the first day of a 40-day celebration of the new year, but in reality many of the visitors to the city have already started returning to their homes.  The decorations will stay up for 40 days, but everyone returns to work within a day or two of Nao Roz;  the only real celebration we can discern are the "Women's Days" which occur on the 4 Wednesdays following the new year.  On these days, the park surrounding the shrine is closed to all men (enforced by police) and the women go to picnic without their headscarves and without having to behave "properly" because men are present.  Honestly - although the excitement was fun - we're ready for the celebrations to be over and the city to return to normal again.

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Site Under Construction

In case you hadn't noticed, this page has been undergoing a bit of a facelift.  We're pretty excited about the new look, but it has sort of paralyzed our page for a couple of weeks.  As we played around with the code to get the page to do what we wanted, we were unable to add new posts.  But we think we're finally done....what do you think?  Just in case you're curious, all of the new pictures framing the page were taken by us: turns out we've seen some cool stuff since we've been here.

On Saturday of this week, the entire Persian world celebrates their new year and the beginning of spring, so we should be able to start updating you regularly.  In the meantime, check out some of the new photos we've uploaded to the album (follow the "Photos" icon).

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He Makes Everything Beautiful...

I've never figured out the actual purpose of a sunset, unless perhaps it was created for people in parts of the world like this one.  I hesitate to say anything that has a remote chance of being found on the inside of some Hallmark card, but really how else can I explain it:  only the Perfect Designer could turn something like this.......

.....into something like this.

"The heavens declare the glory of  God, and the sky above proclaims His handiwork."

                    ~ Psalm 19:1

*The assist goes to my wife, whose skillful photography captured the moment while at the same time avoiding observation from the local men nearby who would have undoubtedly assumed we were trying to photograph "their women."

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Visiting The Rouza

A couple days ago we finally found time to visit the Rouza - the giant blue mosque at the center of the city.  We pass it almost everyday on our way to the bazaars or to the other side of the city, but we had never actually gone inside the gate to take a look up close.  The Rouza is literally the reason for the existence of our M-town (the name of the city means "tomb of the saint"), and the city's roads are arranged like spokes of a wheel shooting out from the Rouza like a hub.  The Rouza is part mosque and part shrine to the tomb of Ali, a cousin to the prophet Mohammed and one of the first caliphs of Islam.  Local legend holds that because he did not want his grave desecrated by his enemies, his followers placed his body on a camel and let it wander out into the desert.  The Rouza supposedly sits on the spot where the camel stopped - where Ali is buried.

Although that may be a bit of a stretch, the Rouza itself is beautiful and during the local new year celebration it is said to be quite a tourist attraction for both the devout and the curious.

The Rouza itself is a cluster of buildings comprising a mosque, a shrine, and a sort of museum/gift shop, all of which are surrounded by a large park.  The park itself is actually very nice and peaceful, and turns out to be one of the few places in the whole country where there is NOT trash on the ground!  Walking between the fountains and trees and watching families eating on the grass almost made us forget for a minute that we were in an impoverished, oppressive Central Asian country.  It seemed so normal - so American!  Spring hasn't come yet, but we'll have to take pictures again once the flowers and trees bloom. 

The white pigeons of M-town are famous throughout our country, and there are hundreds of them at the Rouza.  Locals say that the pigeons were brown or grey before they came to M-town, but after visiting the shrine they turned white; because of the super-natural power of the place, you can't find white pigeons anywhere else, they say.  Somehow when we point out white pigeons in other cities, that doesn't seem to dissuade them at all....hmm.

The entire structure of the Rouza is covered with individually painted clay tiles fitted together to create larger designs.  It really is quite a site, and it's just as beautiful up close as it is from a distance.

This last picture gets as much of the shrine into the frame as we possible can.  (Many thanks to the gentleman who kindly provided us with scale - the fence he is standing next to is a good 10 ft above the ground on the other side and perhaps 50 ft from the actual door of the shrine)  Beyond this fence you are not allowed to wear shoes, and technically you must be Muslim to enter, although we know many foreigners who were allowed to visit.

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Thoughts From James Fraser

Lately I've been reading Mountain Rain, the biography of James Fraser.  Fraser moved to rural China with the intention that the local Lisu tribe would know the Truth, and - although I haven't finished the book yet - I've been struck by several of his insights into his experiences moving across the world with such a large task.   I was particularly struck by his quote below, perhaps because I've found myself almost subconsciously making the same excuses at one point or another.  It has been somewhat of a kick in the pants...perhaps I should stop waiting around for the perfect situation to present itself and instead get down to the business that I'm here for.

Excerpt from Fraser's diary::

"The temptation I have often had to contend with is persistent under many forms:  If only I were in such and such a position, for example, shouldn't I be able to do a great work!  Yes, I am only studying engineering at present, but when I am in training for CP work things will be different and more helpful.'    Or, 'I am just in preparation at present, taking courses and so on, but when I get to China my work will begin.'  Or, 'Yes I have left home now, but I am only on the voyage; when I am really in China, I shall have a splendid chance of service'.  Or, 'Well here in the Training Home all my time must be given to language study - how can I do God's work?  But when I am settled in my station and able to speak freely, opportunities will be unlimited!' 

"It is all IF and WHEN.  I believe the devil is fond of those conjunctions...the plain truth is that the Scriptures never teach us to wait for opportunities of service, but to serve in just the things that lie next to our hands.  The Lord bids us work, watch, and pray; but Satan suggests that we wait until a good opportunity for working, watching, and praying presents itself  - and needless to say, this opportunity is always in the future.  Since the things that lie in our immediate path have been ordered of God, who shall say that one kind of work is more important and sacred than another?  I am no more doing the Lord's work in giving the Word of God to the Chinese than you are, for example, in wrapping a parcel to send to the tailor.  It is not for us to choose our work.  And if God has chosen it for us, hadn't we better go straight ahead and do it, without waiting for anything greater, better or nobler?"

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A Moment to Savor

There's not much we wanted to say with this post...just sharing this photo with you.  We noticed the sky driving home from some errands, so we ran inside to grab the camera and climb to the roof.  There are very few things about this place that are beautiful, but occasionally we have moments like this that remind us God didn't just "run out of paint" before He got around to creating this part of the world.  Enjoy it - we certainly did :)

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Happy Groundhog Day

As of yet, we haven't figured out if there is an equivalent custom here for determining when winter will end.  There aren't any groundhogs here, so that can't be it.  Currently we're enjoying an unusually warm couple of weeks with highs during the days of 50s and 60s (Fahrenheit), so maybe we'll get lucky and escape with a mild winter.

We've been MIA for the last few weeks not only because we've been battling some head colds, but also because we just welcomed several new teammates to our city.  We've been incredibly busy getting their new houses set up for them, and introducing them to life in Central Asia.  We've watched with empathy as they've begun to struggle through some of the same things we experienced when we first arrived: working out a schedule around inconsistent power, cooking in something that resembles a reasonable amount of time, and keeping a house running with shoddy appliances and faulty plumbing.  Already one family has passed the standard Central Asian rite of passage - they've had to call the plumber out to their house 5 times because each time he shows up, he fails to fix the problem.

Yet to a certain extent, watching them and helping them has been very encouraging for us.  We're certain they will catch on quickly, but they arrived with absolutely no idea of how to live here and not a single word of Persian.  It's very easy for us to only look at how far we still have to go - how many words we don't understand or how much we can't do - and never notice how far we've come.  After only a couple of months, we can easily perform all the basic life functions and carry on full length conversations...in Persian.  Although we're far from where we want to be, we're much farther along than we realized, and we're still making progress.

We were walking home from school today, passing shops selling carrot juice and camels grazing in trash heaps by the roadside, when it struck us how few of these things even strike us as strange anymore. It's no longer unusual to pass a Corolla with 4 women riding the popped trunk because there are already 7 people in the car, or to have to plan the clothes-washing schedule around the times we'll have city power. We wouldn't go so far as to say we feel "at home"....maybe we're just caught off guard less!

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The Quarter Century Mark

Within the past week or so, both of us celebrated our 25th birthdays - our first birthdays overseas.  It turns out that here no one here celebrates birthdays because they don't know when they are;  when we ask locals their age or birthday, they'll respond with something vague like "I'm maybe 35 or 38" or "When the roses start to bud, that's when I was born."  Only in recent years have the majority of urban women begun to have their babies in hospitals rather than at home, and it was only a few years ago that the government started requiring those hospitals to issue birth certificates.  

Despite this, we still decided to celebrate our birthdays, but in the way that a local would celebrate the birth of a child or a holiday.  Here in Central Asia, the person celebrating the special occasion throws the party for all of his or her friends, and instead of receiving gifts, he or she would give cheryni to each friend.  Cheryni is a small gift - often candy or sweets - given out on special occasions.  Occasionally it could even be a small article of clothing, such as a headscarf or socks.  Unlike in the US, the locals here get very excited about receiving socks as a gift:  since much of the population barely makes enough money to feed their family, socks are viewed as a "non-essential" clothing item, and only someone with expendable income would spend money on socks.

We decided to hang on to a bit of the US custom - instead of us cooking cheryni for our own birthdays, Laylo would cook for Matin's birthday, and then Matin would cook for Laylo's.   As you might expect, Laylo whipped up a masterpiece that included apple pie, carrot cake, chicken with cheese filling, sweet potato casserole, and fried asparagus.  The locals loved the food, and sat around for quite a while looking a pictures and hearing stories of our previous life in the US.   A week later, Matin proved to be completely incompetent in the kitchen, until he discovered that his true talent was cooking in the dark.   He managed to screw up a "just add oil & eggs" Funfetti cake mix that he tried to cook to bring to language class, but once the power went out later that evening, he did manage to blindly combine the right ingredients to produce a party-sized serving of chicken parmesan.  We're not sure which the local women enjoyed more:  the food, or hearing about Matin's kitchen mishaps!    

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Happy New Year!

We've made it to our new city, and we are loving it! Actually, we made it more than 2 weeks ago, but we haven't had access to the internet so that we could post updates and pictures. Matin's company finally got the internet equipment through customs and set up in the office on Thursday...and then the city power went out that same day and hasn't come back on! The power here in M-town comes from a neighboring country 60 km to the north, and rumor has it that the province we live in forgot to pay their power bill, so the power supply was cut off. Honestly, how does that happen? Hopefully the situation will be resolved quickly...

Despite that, we really are enjoying this new city. Although you can see in the picture that it's no village, it has more of a "small town" feel to it, as shopkeepers and neighbors love to talk or grab tea with you on the side of the road. In the center of the picture you can see the Rouza (the blue shrine) that is the major landmark of our city; all streets lead there, which is the center of the city. We've never been anywhere that is so FLAT, which is especially noticeable since we moved from a city at over 5,000 feet.  The land stretches out seemingly without even a bump as far as we can see, except to the south:  there the city is snuggled up against one of the most beautiful ridges of mountains we've ever seen.  We'll try to post some more pictures of the Rouza and our city, but for now this one will have to do!  (We apologize for the low quality of the photo - it was taken from the window of the plane as we came in.)

Oh, and Happy New Year!  We didn't get to watch the ball drop in Times Square this year, or get those cool "2009" glasses, but we still managed to have some fun.  Who knows what this year will be bring, but we're fairly sure it will be nothing like the last one ;)

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